You booked a cottage near Rothbury. You packed your swimsuit. Then you opened Google and found 400 blog posts all pointing to the same three beaches on the coast. Inland Northumberland has deeper pools, quieter trails, and water so clean you can drink it. But you need to know exactly where to park, which grid reference to punch into your phone, and what the water temperature feels like in June. This guide covers seven spots where the hike is worth the swim — and vice versa.
The Cheviot Horseshoe: A 12-Mile Loop With Two Swim Spots
Start at the Harthope Valley car park (NT$5 all day, cash only). Grid ref: NT 942 185. The path climbs past Langleeford, then skirts the edge of the Cheviot plateau. At 2.5 miles you hit the first swim: Langleeford Pool. It’s a deep, dark pool under a small waterfall. Water temperature in July sits around 12°C. Not warm. But the clarity is absurd — you can see the bottom at 3 metres.
Continue to the summit of The Cheviot itself (815m). The views stretch to the coast on a clear day. The descent drops you into the Breamish Valley. Hedgehope Hill is the second swim — actually a series of three pools connected by small cascades. The middle pool is deepest (about 2.5m). Park at Linhope car park (NT$4, card accepted) for a shorter 6-mile version that cuts out the summit and goes straight to these pools.
What you need to know
Both swim spots are exposed. Wind whips down the valley. Bring a neoprene cap if you’re swimming outside June–August. The hike takes 6–7 hours at a steady pace. Waterproof your phone — you will want photos.
One failure mode: people attempt this in trainers. The path from Langleeford to the Cheviot summit is boggy even in a dry July. You need waterproof boots or trail runners. I saw a woman in fashion sneakers slip on the descent and sprain her ankle. Don’t be her.
Harbottle Lake: The Quietest Swim in the National Park
This is the one locals don’t tell tourists about. Harbottle Lake sits in the Coquet Valley, a 20-minute walk from the car park at Harbottle village (free parking, NT 937 048). The path follows the River Coquet upstream. You cross two stone bridges, then the lake appears on your left.
The lake is about 200m long and 15m wide. Deepest point is 4m near the dam wall. Water temperature hits 16°C by August — warm by Northumberland standards. The bottom is soft mud and silt, not pebbles. Wear water shoes. The swim is sheltered by trees on three sides, so the wind rarely ruins it.
Here’s the catch: the lake is owned by the Harbottle Estate. There’s no official swimming ban, but the estate asks you to keep noise down and take every scrap of rubbish out. A family of four left a disposable barbecue and three beer cans last summer. The estate manager threatened to lock the gate. Be the person who carries out more than you carried in.
Simonside Ridge: Short Hike, Big Views, One Risky Pool
The Simonside Ridge walk from Lordenshaw car park (NT$3, card only, NT 057 991) is only 3.5 miles but packs 300m of ascent. The payoff is the Drake Stone — a massive sandstone boulder that local legends say was thrown by a giant. Climb onto it for a photo, then continue 200m north to the pool.
The pool under the Drake Stone is small — maybe 8m across — but deep. The water is dark brown from peat tannins. It looks unappealing but tastes clean. The problem is access. The bank is steep, muddy, and slippery. Two people have been airlifted from this spot since 2026 after slipping and hitting rocks on the way down. If you go in, enter from the shallow east side. Don’t jump. The depth varies by season and you can’t see the bottom.
Better alternative: skip the Drake Stone pool and walk another 15 minutes to Simonside Cairn. From the cairn, descend 100m west to a smaller, safer pool that nobody writes about. Grid ref: NT 038 994. It’s shallower (1.5m max) but the entry is a gentle gravel slope. Safer for less confident swimmers.
Linhope Spout: The Best Waterfall Swim in Northumberland
| Detail | Value |
|---|---|
| Grid reference | NT 955 161 |
| Parking | Linhope car park, NT$4 (card) |
| Walk time from car | 20 minutes (0.8 miles) |
| Pool depth | 2m at base of fall, 1.2m in main pool |
| Water temp (August) | 14°C |
| Best time of day | 10am–2pm (sun hits the pool) |
| Mobile signal | None. Download maps offline. |
Linhope Spout is a 20-metre waterfall that drops into a deep plunge pool. The hike from the car park is flat and easy — suitable for kids aged 8+. The path follows Linhope Burn through a narrow valley. You’ll hear the waterfall before you see it.
The pool is cold. Even in August, 14°C is typical. The shock of entry is real. But the water is so clear you can see individual pebbles at the bottom. Swim under the falling water for a natural shoulder massage. The force is strong enough to push you under if you get too close — stay 2 metres back from the base.
One mistake people make: they wear cotton shorts into the water. Cotton soaks up water, gets heavy, and makes swimming harder. Wear quick-dry shorts or a swimsuit. Also: the rocks around the pool are covered in green algae. They’re like ice. Walk slowly. I’ve seen three people go in fully clothed trying to get a photo.
Barrowburn Campsite to Windy Gyle: Wild Camp + Dawn Swim
This is for people who want to sleep out and swim at sunrise. Barrowburn Campsite (NT$15 per person per night, book online) sits at the head of the Coquet Valley. It’s basic — a toilet block, cold water tap, and a field. No showers, no electric hookups. That’s the point.
From the campsite, follow the Pennine Way south for 2 miles to Windy Gyle (619m). On the way, you pass the River Coquet at three points where you can swim. The best is at grid ref: NT 867 142 — a deep, slow-moving section about 50m long and 2m deep. The water is 10°C at 7am in July. You will scream. Then you will feel incredible.
The sunrise from Windy Gyle summit is worth the 4.30am alarm. The Cheviots turn gold. The silence is total. Swim on the way back down when you’re warm from the descent. The water feels warmer after the climb.
What to pack: a dry bag for your sleeping clothes, a head torch (the path is unlit), and a thermos of hot tea for after the swim. The campsite sells logs for a fire pit (NT$5 per bundle).
Hareshaw Linn: The Secret Waterfall Near Bellingham
Most visitors to Northumberland head straight for the coast. They miss Hareshaw Linn, a 9-metre waterfall hidden in a wooded gorge 10 minutes from Bellingham. Park at the Bellingham Heritage Centre car park (NT$3, cash only, NY 838 833). The walk is 1.5 miles each way along a well-maintained path.
The waterfall drops into a pool about 1.5m deep. The water is cold (11–13°C in summer) but the gorge is sheltered, so the air feels warmer. The pool is surrounded by mossy rocks and ferns. It feels like a swimming spot from a fantasy novel. The water is soft — low mineral content — so your skin feels smooth after.
One problem: the path can be muddy after rain. It’s a clay surface that turns into a slip hazard. Walking poles help. Also: there are no facilities at the waterfall. No bins, no benches, no toilets. Pack out everything.
The best time to visit is a weekday in May or September. The crowds are thin. You might have the pool to yourself. In August, expect 10–15 people on a Saturday. Still quiet by beach standards.
How to Swim Safely in Northumberland’s Rivers and Lakes
Cold water shock is real. Northumberland’s inland water stays between 10–16°C even in summer. Your body’s first reaction is to gasp and hyperventilate. That’s why people drown — they inhale water. Enter slowly. Let your body adjust for 60 seconds before swimming. Wear a bright swim cap so other people can see you.
Check the river levels before you go. The Environment Agency river levels page is free and updated hourly. If the level at the nearest gauge is above 1.5m, don’t swim. The current will be too strong. After heavy rain, rivers rise fast and carry debris you can’t see.
Never swim alone in remote spots. If you must, tell someone your exact grid reference and expected return time. Carry a PLB (personal locator beacon) — the Garmin inReach Mini 2 costs £300 and works where phones don’t. I carry mine on every solo hike.
One final rule: if you can’t see the bottom, don’t jump in. Submerged rocks, tree roots, and shopping trolleys exist in every river in Britain. Enter feet first, check the depth, then swim.
The single most important takeaway: the best swim in Northumberland is the one you reach after a hike that makes you earn it — so pick a spot from this list, pack your bag the night before, and go before 9am.
